Tuesday, September 29, 2015

The Amazing Coat Sew Along- The Muslin-2

I am wearing the muslin, it was underline and the fit is snug. After I took the photos I decreased the seam allowance from 5/8- 1/4. The fit improved in terms of ease, I still have a few more decisions to make... work in progress.

Sunday, September 27, 2015

The Amazing Coat Sew Along- The Muslin

Burda 6727 is an unlined jacket with an integral collar. After checking the finished measurements I choose a size 10. I had to read the pattern instructions a few times regarding how to sew the dart and the collar. The pattern instructions are basic, interfacing is only added to the back neck and the front pattern.. I recommend that you use the instruction only for sewing the front collar, the shoulder seam and attaching the collar to the back neck seam . If you have a good sewing book, this will be the time to use it as a reference.
Fabric: medium weight purple denim with no stretch; it was underline with grey batiste. The coat was sewn and tried on and the following was noted:
 a) The fit in the neck, shoulders and upper back was good. A slope shoulder adjustment is a must for me. Correction- ½ inch slope shoulder adjustment
 b) The fit from the bust to the hip was snug. Correction- add 5/8- from the armhole to the hem
c) Add 3-inches to the length
d) Remove ½-inch from the back shoulder and add ½-inch to the front shoulder e) Add ¼ to the center back seam
f) The muslin also revealed that I need chest support. I may use this tip from Gertie to add chest support and shoulder pads to the coat.

I am please that I took the time to work on the muslin today. Tomorrow I will make the adjustments on the pattern and I will  be ready for October 1.

Sunday, September 20, 2015

The Amazing Coat Sew Along- Fabrics, Books & Videos

Fabrics: too many choices, here are the contenders:

The purple fabric is a light to medium weight denim that I am going to use to make a muslin to check the fit.

The fabric is a wine color dark purple.

FYI- do not put iron on interfacing (fabric type) or any other type in the washing machine. Ask me how I know. What was I thinking? Instead run hot water from the faucet and soak the interfacing until the water gets cold. Lightly squeeze the water out and hang to dry.

Books and Videos
Erica wrote a post concerning tailoring books that she uses. I have the same books except for the illustrated guide to tailoring. In addition to the books I will be referring to the books below. The Bishop Method of Construction- they are my favorite books to read. 

The Vogue Book of Sewing and The Complete books to Tailoring by Adele Margolis is another favorite.

Craftsy- Essential Guide to Tailoring- Structure and Shape by Allison Smith

You Tube- The Making of a Coat. If you have the time and you’re interested in tailoring techniques and lots of hand stitching check this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6tlEoqDKT0

Sunday, September 13, 2015

Sew- Alongs, Lessons Learned - The Amazing Coat-Sew-Along

In the last nine years I’ve joined two or three sew-along and failed at each one. When I read about a sew-along my anxiety level went to 0-10. LOL! Until, Faye had the Carnival of Skirts Sew-Along. Of course I jumped on the skirt bandwagon because skirts are my favorite garment to sew. That was my first successful sew-a-long. I believe I sewed three or four skirts.
The reason for my success:
1.I use a TNT skirt pattern that I’ve used countless time and sewn it in all type of fabrics
2.During the sew-a-long, I devised plan and dedicated ½ - 1 hour sewing time

 Here is why I failed in the other sew-a-longs:
1.I joined the sew-along without taking into consideration the time that would be required time, the type of garment(s), and my level of sewing.
2. The choice of patterns- I choose patterns that I did not work with before. This caused me to spend too much time fitting and altering the pattern. Lesson learned: choose a pattern that you have worked with before, maybe a TNT pattern. In fact I believe TNT pattern(s) should be the pattern(s) of choice.

For the last two winters my sewing sister and I spoke about coats. My sister has a wonderful collection of fabulous coats including the ones she made. I’ve never given my coats a second look, I own maybe one heavy winter coat, two light coats for fall and spring and that’s it.  The idea of making a coat and updating my coat closet has been on my mind for a while. And here come Erica  with the Coat Sew-Along. When I first read about the sew-along and I decided that I would stand on sidelines and cheer everyone else on. Once Erica started the daily post I started to move from the sidelines to getting in line. What made me leave the sidelines and get on the bandwagon?                   1. You get to choose the pattern. I choose a very simple pattern. Straight stich sewing. This is the first time I am sewing a coat and I want it simple. Alterations and fitting will be kept to a minimal, my first goal here is to have a wearable coat to wear to the finish line. The second goal is to use my very, very, and very extensive stash. I have interlining, lining, shoulder pads, etc. The long term goal is for my chosen pattern to become a TNT pattern.                                                                                                2. This post took me from the sidelines onto the bandwagon. The first paragraph was the deal maker for me: “When I start to think about what pattern I want to use to make a coat, I first think of the need it will fill in my wardrobe. Will this coat be a necessity? Will this coat be a classic coat that I plan on wearing for many years to come? Or will this be a trendy coat in a fun color or print? Also, other variables I must take into consideration? When will I wear it? And does it really meet the standards of my lifestyle and climate?” Next pattern and fabric.

Friday, August 14, 2015

Circle Skirt

My love of skirts has been well documented on this blog.
This skirt was easy to sew. I did not use a pattern. I took one of the circle skirts that I made in 2007,  made a pattern by laying the skirt on muslin, traced around the perimeter of the skirt, added 1-inch seam allowance at the side seams, ½- inch- seam allowance at the waist and 2-inches at the hem. That was it.                      The back and the front of the skirt were identical. I added a side seam zipper. The skirt has a lining that was cut from the same skirt pattern with the same seam allowance; however the lining was sewn at ½-inch and it was attached at the waist.                                                         
The skirt hem; my original plan was to do a 2-inch hem. That did not work out because the hem stood away from the skirt. Instead I did a basting stitch one-inch from the edge of the hem, turned it under and top stitch. Perfecttttt! After I made the skirt I was unsure about the color of the blouse or shirt to wear with the skirt. Well when you own a well-rounded wardrobe you never have to worry about matching anything all you have to do is walk into your closet and wallahhhh! I found the grey blouse and the shoes this morning as I was looking through my closet.  This is what I wore today. The photos were taken after a long stressful day at work. No worries I got so many complements at work today, it made my day!  Later.

Saturday, July 4, 2015

Happy 4th of July

Have a safe and AWESOME holiday weekend.

Saturday, June 13, 2015

Pinterest (inspiration), Cowl Neck Blouse and a Gore Skirt

The photo below was on Pinterest and it inspired me to create the skirt and the blouse.   

Fabrics: knit - animal print and white stretch gabardine fabric from my stash. Camouflage white and pink medium weight cotton knit fabric was  bought in Brooklyn, NY on a fabric extravaganza trip with my sewing sister Sheila.  Notions: pinking shears, and cotton and polyester thread and a white zipper.     
Construction & Sewing: The white skirt was self-drafted using my TNT skirt pattern. It’s an eight panel gore skirt. I did not try the skirt on during the construction because I’ve sewn many skirts and my TNT work like a charm. Well, surprise, surprise, the skirt was too big. I took in ¼ inch at  all the seam except for the center back seam where the zipper was inserted. I removed two inches from the waistband. I did not bother to try it on until today.                                                                                                                                                                                             The Cowl neck Blouse: you can find the pattern here . This is one of my favorite websites for free patterns.                                                                                                                                         Alterations: short back adjustment, two inches was removed from the middle back, ½- inch slope shoulder adjustment and one inch was removed from the hem.                                                        Note: this pattern works best with a knit that had a lot of drape.  I will not recommend a thin and vey light knit. Medium weight cotton knit the cowl neck does not drape softly.                                       This video tutorial was very helpful. After watching the tutorial I added a self-facing to the front of the blouse and a back facing.  The blogger who did the tutorial has a lot to offer, especially for beginners.                                                                                                                                             The young lady in this video inspired me to cut up my TNT skirt pattern to make a gore skirt . I know you may not see the connection, oh well that is how my brain work. One more skirt and maybe two more tops coming soon! Enjoy



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